The Last Voyage - 4
The natives at this anchorage of Cariari were rather suspicious, but Columbus seized two
of them to act as guides in his journey further down the coast. Weighing anchor on
October 5th he worked along the Costa Rica shore, which here turns to the eastward
again, and soon found a tribe of natives who wore large ornaments of gold. They were
reluctant to part with the gold, but as usual pointed down the coast and said that there was
much more gold there; they even gave a name to the place where the gold could be
found—Veragua; and for once this country was found to have a real existence. The fleet
anchored there on October 17th, being greeted by defiant blasts of conch shells and
splashing of water from the indignant natives. Business was done, however: seventeen
gold discs in exchange for three hawks' bells.
Still Columbus went on in pursuit of his geographical chimera; even gold had no power
to detain him from the earnest search for this imaginary strait. Here and there along the
coast he saw increasing signs of civilisation—once a wall built of mud and stone, which
made him think of Cathay again. He now got it into his head that the region he was in
was ten days' journey from the Ganges, and that it was surrounded by water; which if it
means anything means that he thought he was on a large island ten days' sail to the
eastward of the coast of India. Altogether at sea as to the facts, poor Admiral, but with
heart and purpose steadfast and right enough.
They sailed a little farther along the coast, now between narrow islands that were like the
streets of Genoa, where the boughs of trees on either hand brushed the shrouds of the
ships; now past harbours where there were native fairs and markets, and where natives
were to be seen mounted on horses and armed with swords; now by long, lonely stretches
of the coast where there was nothing to be seen but the low green shore with the
mountains behind and the alligators basking at the river mouths. At last (November 2nd)
they arrived at the cape known as Nombre de Dios, which Ojeda had reached some time
before in his voyage to the West.
The coast of the mainland had thus been explored from the Bay of Honduras to Brazil,
and Columbus was obliged to admit that there was no strait. Having satisfied himself of
that he decided to turn back to Veragua, where he had seen the natives smelting gold, in
order to make some arrangement for establishing a colony there. The wind, however,
which had headed him almost all the way on his easterly voyage, headed him again now
and began to blow steadily from the west. He started on his return journey on the 5th of
December, and immediately fell into almost worse troubles than he had been in before.
The wood of the ships had been bored through and through by seaworms, so that they
leaked very badly; the crews were sick, provisions were spoilt, biscuits rotten. Young
Ferdinand Columbus, if he did not actually make notes of this voyage at the time,
preserved a very lively recollection of it, and it is to his Historie, which in its earlier
passages is of doubtful authenticity, that we owe some of the most human touches of
description relating to this voyage. Any passage in his work relating to food or animals at
this time has the true ring of boyish interest and observation, and is in sharp contrast to
the second-hand and artificial tone of the earlier chapters of his book. About the incident
of the howling monkey, which the Admiral's Irish hound would not face, Ferdinand
remarks that it "frighted a good dog that we had, but frighted one of our wild boars a
great deal more"; and as to the condition of the biscuits when they turned westward
again, he says that they were "so full of weevils that, as God shall help me, I saw many
that stayed till night to eat their sop for fear of seeing them."
After experiencing some terrible weather, in the course of which they had been obliged to
catch sharks for food and had once been nearly overwhelmed by a waterspout, they
entered a harbour where, in the words of young Ferdinand, "we saw the people living like
birds in the tops of the trees, laying sticks across from bough to bough and building their
huts upon them; and though we knew not the reason of the custom we guessed that it was
done for fear of their enemies, or of the griffins that are in this island." After further
experiences of bad weather they made what looked like a suitable harbour on the coast of
Veragua, which harbour, as they entered it on the day of the Epiphany (January 9, 1503),
they named Belem or Bethlehem. The river in the mouth of which they were anchored,
however, was subject to sudden spouts and gushes of water from the hills, one of which
occurred on January 24th and nearly swamped the caravels. This spout of water was
caused by the rainy season, which had begun in the mountains and presently came down
to the coast, where it rained continuously until the 14th of February. They had made
friends with the Quibian or chief of the country, and he had offered to conduct them to
the place where the gold mines were; so Bartholomew was sent off in the rain with a boat
party to find this territory. It turned out afterwards that the cunning Quibian had taken
them out of his own country and showed them the gold mined of a neighbouring chief,
which were not so rich as his own.
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