NOW TO CONNECT EVERYTHING

NOW TO CONNECT EVERYTHING
First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit
each corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of
wire that you get from using the clip leads to make connections.
After each connection gently tuck away the excess wire.
1. Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047)
together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alligator
clip.
2. Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a
connection) inward towards each other in an L shape.
Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other
end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9KW resistor
by pin 7.

3. Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the
1KW resistor attached to pin 8.
4. Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the
switch, and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one
hook inside the hole and the other hook around the whole
connection. Check to make sure they are securely connected.)
5. Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other
1KW resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt.
6. Twist the free end of the 3.9KW resistor around the plus
end of the
LED. Connect
the minus end
of the LED to
the grounding
bolt using an
alligator clip.
7. Connect pin
number 1 on
the chip to the
grounding bolt
with an
alligator clip.
8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts.
Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the
same for the other bolt and handhold.
9. Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the
grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
10. Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free
end of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights
up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the
switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly.
If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position,
you must double-check all of your connections, and make
sure you have a fresh battery.

11. Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a couple
of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely
shut.
• Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting
an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds.
Any electronics shop can do this. It should read
between 20 and 40 kHz.
• Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an
oscilloscope. It should be about 8 to 9 volts. Note: a
voltage meter will only read 4 to 5 volts.
• Optional: measure the current that flows through you when
you are getting zapped. You will need a 1 KW resistor and
oscilloscope. Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to
one end of the resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor
to a handhold. (Adding this resistor to the circuit decreases
the current slightly, but not significantly.)


The other handhold is attached to the other bolt. Connect
the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor. Connect
the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the
zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on
the scope. It will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by
dividing voltage by resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 KW
is 3.5 ma (milliamperes).
Using The Zapper
1. Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before
using. Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap.
2. Zap for 7 minutes, let go of the handholds, turn off the
zapper, and rest for 20 minutes. Then 7 minutes on, 20
minutes rest, and a final 7 minutes on.
Trying the zapper on an illness to see “if it works” is not
useful. Your symptoms may be due to a non-parasite. Or you may
reinfect within hours of zapping. The best way to test your device
is to find a few invaders that you currently have (see Lesson
Twelve, page 492, or Lesson Twenty Seven, page 509). This
gives you a starting point. Then zap yourself. After the triple
zapping, none of these invaders should be present.